Trek to Ambae's Volcano Crater

Living on a semi active volcanic island is quite an experience.  It is not uncommon to feel small earthquakes or rumbles in the distance.  Because the volcano lets of steam almost constantly it isn't in much danger of a big eruption anytime soon.  It hasn't had a big eruption in over 300 years. 

The island of Ambae is actually a 1,496 m (4,908 ft) mountain called Lombenben.  On top of this volcanic mountain are three lakes.  The biggest is also the highest lake in the south pacific region.  It is called Lake Manaro Lakua (this means big in local language).  The next is called Lake Vui.  It is a warm lake that has a layer of rock separating it from the lava that is not very thick.  A small crack in that rock would cause quite a bang if the water were to mix with the lava. There is at third one called Lake Manaro Ngoru.  This lake is dry 6 months out of the year and the other 6 months it is filled from a cold water spring.

 

We set out on our adventure on a Friday night in November.  I joined up with a couple Australian GAP volunteers to tag along with their tour guide from a nearby village.  Andrea, the Health Aid Post worker from my village, came too. 

Friday night we walked about an hour up to one of the last villages.  We settled into our tents early to prepare for an early wake up call.

The real hiking began early Saturday morning.  First we walked for 2.5 hours uphill!

Then we reached the top of Mt. Lombenben!  At this point we were halfway there but the path was now covered in thick overgrown bush that went over our heads.  The guide that was leading us hadn't been up there in 3 years so his path was a bit hard to follow.  Using only their bush knives the boys slowly chopped away at the thick jungle.  One boy would jump on the bush to push it down and a few others came behind to hack away.  The cut vines were sharp and gave us lots of scratches and bruises along the way through behind the bushwhackers.

We moved at about the speed of waiting in line at Disney World for a popular ride.  After about 6 hours of this our tour guides told us that we wouldn't be able to make it before dark.  We agreed to spend the night in our tents up on top of the mountain.  We set up camp and searched for firewood. It had also begun to rain so most of our firewood was now wet.  A small smokey fire was all we could manage.  So we all huddled together for warmth!

We woke up early the next morning for a fog covered summit.  The young boys set out to finish clearing the trail and we tried our best to warm ourselves.  It rained cats and dogs all night so we were cold and wet.  Also we had only been eating crackers and peanut butter the whole trek so were were a bit hungry as well.  I for some reason thought I wouldn't need my rain coat...silly silly silly.  All I had for warmth was an extra skirt.  It helped but wasn't the most fashionable outfit.

When the boys came back to let us know the path was now clear we set out on about an hour or so walk to finally reach one of the lakes.  It was such a feeling of accomplishment when we finally reached the edge of the crater and looked down upon the blue green Lake Vui covered in a thick fog.

It took us another hour or so to make our way down the steep sandy slope to the water's edge.  With only grass and old rotting trees to hold onto we had to take our time.

Lake Vui is a warm water lake that surrounds the smoking crater.  There is a lingering smell of sulpher in the air which constantly reminds you that you are now standing inside a semi-active volcanic crater.

We waded in the warm water and took a few victory photos.  What an accomplishment!  We still had the long journey back home ahead of us.  Andrea collected some of the water in a bottle to take back home.  The Ambae natives believe this water has healing qualities.  The boys rested in the warm sand because the ari was actually cold!

It started to rain again so we decided we should start heading back down.  7 hours later I was back home hungry, tired, and sore.  But it was all worth it.  What an adventure!  I can't wait to hike it again and hopefully see the other two lakes.